Categories
Fusible Interlining

Garment Accessories and Its Types

 What is Fusible Interlining

Fusible interlining is used in a lot of garments as well as other textiles like curtains…“a base fabric coated on one side with a thermoplastic adhesive resin which can be bonded to another fabric by the controlled application of heat and pressure.

      Garment Accessories and Its Types

The fabric is the most important component of garments which makes the garment more attractive and other supporting materials are used along with the fabric. These materials are known as garment accessories which serve the basic functions of decorative ideas. Button, Zipper, Thread, Label, etc. are some main garments accessories. 

Types of Garments Accessories

1. Basic accessories

Basic accessories are the fundamental accessories of a garment. Some of them are listed below, 

 The function of basic accessories is given below.

Thread

The thread is a long, thin strand of cotton, nylon, silk, or other fibers used for patching purposes. Thread is the main accessory of garments. Most of the time the metallic coating thread is used for decorative purposes. 

Zipper

The zipper is a binding device that is used to bind two edges of the fabric and other flexible materials. Its main function is to bind two edges as it could be easily opened. There are different types of the zipper. Some of them are given below-

  • Metallic zipper
  • Coil zipper 
  • Invisible zipper 
  • Plastic molded zipper 
  • Open-ended zipper 
  • Close-ended zipper 
  • Magnetic zipper

Button

 A button can be made of plastic, metal, wood, glass, and sometimes from the animal bone, shell, ivory, etc. There are different types of buttons. Those are, 

  • Shank button
  • Flat button 
  • Snap button 
  • Stud(jeans) button 
  • Lapel button
Flat buttons are most commonly used. 

Label

The label can be made of paper, plastic film, fabric, or some similar items as such. It can also be attached, printed, embossed on the garments. There are two types of labels used, 

  1. Main label
  2. Sub-label

The main label contains the Brand name, brand logo, etc.

Sub-label is divided into different categories-

  • Care label
  • Size label 
  • Price label 
  • Composition label 
  • Special label 
  • Flag label

Lining

The lining is the piece of fabric that is inserted in the inner layer of garments. 

 It helps to extend the useful life of garments by reducing wearing and tearing strain. 

Interlining

Interlining is used between two layers of fabric to give more support. The function of interlining is to hold up and keep the original shape. There are two types of interlining

  1. Fusible interlining
  2. Non-fusible interlining

Elastic

Elastic is a narrow fabric-covered strand that can stretch due to its composition. Rubber or spandex cores are covered in a fabric such as polyester, nylon, or cotton and then woven, knitted, or braided to create the elastic. There are several types of elastic- 

  1. Braided elastic
  2. Knitted elastic 
  3. Fold-over elastic 
  4. Lingerie elastic

Braided elastic is commonly used. 

Cord

The cord is a narrow, adjustable material normally made of twisted strands or fabrics. It is generally used to bind, tie, connect and support.

Ribbon

The ribbon is a light material, usually made of material but also plastic or sometimes metal. There are different types of ribbons. such as

Rivet

A rivet is a mechanical bond. The heads are made in such a form that they can be inserted into a hole. It is generally made of metal.

Collarbone

The collarbone is a thin, plastic-made accessory that is inserted into the collar point for keeping the original shape.

2. Decorative accessories

This type of accessory is focused more n appearance and to make the garment more attractive. Here is the list of decorative accessories below,

  • Piping
  • Buttonhole tape
  • Ribbed tape
  • Seaming tape
  • Moiré ribbon
  • Welt tape
  • Stamped tape
  • Bias binding
  • Pompom 
  • Soutache
  • Tassel
  • Fringe
  • Taffeta ribbon
  • Galloon
  • Rosette
  1. Finishing Accessories

Finishing Accessories are largely non-fabric elements and generally, they don’t belong to garments when it is used. Here is the list of Finishing Accessories given below,

  • Hanger
  • Hand tag
  • Polybag
  • Size tag
  • Tissue paper
  • Sticker
  • Plastic clip
  • Scotch tape
  • Safety pin
  • Butterfly
  • Backboard
  • Safety sticker
  • Brass Pin
  • Neck board
  • Carton

 Post Credithttps://engineeringtextile.com/garment/accessories/162-garments-accessories

Categories
Polyester Fabrics

What is Polyester Fabric & its Uses

Polyester fabrics commonly do not stain simply and are resistant to stretching or shrinking. Polyester linings are usually used for lining and insulating coats and hats but may be used for any other type of lining job. This lining polyester is equipped with a nice sheen and shows to be a part transparent.

 Why is it used for?

The idea of lining fabric is to make your garment more wearable, long-lasting, and comfortable. They are usually lightweight and have a soft or silky texture. Not all items need to be lined, though. 

Here are some reasons, 

  • To make the garment light see-through
  • To add warmness and durability
  • To make the inside portion of the garment soft and pleasant to the touch
  • To lend a rich note to a garment
  • To improve the structure of a garment
  • To improve the garment slide on easily
  • To cover seams, padding, interfacing, etc.

By choosing an appropriate lining for your project, one needs to keep in mind that if the garment is not stretchy, non-stretch lining fabric is ok. But if the item is made with elastic materials like jersey, tulle, or stretch satin, the lining one ends up choosing should be stretchy as well.

Advantages & Disadvantages of Polyester 

ADVANTAGES:

  • The fibers are durable and lightweight
  • It is very wrinkle resistant
  • It dries very fast making it ideal for outerwear
  • Polyester fiber take stains (colors) easily
  • It maintains its shape well
  • It is highly stain resistant making it very easy to clean
  • Very reasonable price compared to other synthetic fiber such as Nylon

DISADVANTAGES:

  • Prone to unvarying buildup
  • Tends to retain odors compared to regular fibers
  • Pile retention for carpet/rugs is poor when compared to Nylon
  • Polyester is less breathable than natural fiber such as cotton

Types of lining fabric

  • Viscose/Rayon/Cupro.
  • Cotton.
  • Silk.
  • Polyester or polyester blends.
  • Acetate.
  • Stretch Lining.
  • Thick Insulating lining fabrics.
  • Interlining fabric choices.

How To Select A Lining Fabric

The lining is very important, even though it is not noticeable directly in any garment. The lining will guard your fabric and cover the defective and ugly seams. It also gives your garment body, and in blazers and coats, it will help you pass the garment over other items of clothing. With the lining, you can also be productive in a sewing project. 

Most Popular Lining Fabrics

Silk Lining– Silk charmeuse is a particularly lovely luxury and gives your garment a designer finish. Poly China silk Cotton Lining is a lightweight plain design that is accurate for lightweight garments. Silk, pure silk, raw silk, rayon Silk, China Silk, charmeuse, and a lot of polyester fabrics are all different types of linings.

Rayon Lining – This lightweight and slippery fabric are excellent for lining garments of all kinds. Rayon linings breathe more than polyester or acetate linings, and they are free of static cling.

Lightweight Cotton– Lightweight Cotton Fabrics work great for blouses, clothes, and tops as they are easily draped and sewn. Cotton has long been noted for its comfortable, soft hand and hydrophilic properties. With its amicable breath ability, lightweight fabric has high maintenance of color and prints.

Stretch Lining– Stretch lining leads to the inner layer of fabric that is used to provide a sleek finish to any garment. This fabric is also vital in prolonging the life of a garment by allowing it to fit and move accurately.

Satin Lining – Satin is more affordable than silk fabrics. Stretch satin is often used as lining for party clothes. A satin is a great option for silk. 

Post Credit – https://tissura.com/articles/lining-fabrics

Categories
Fusible Interlining

What is Fusible Interlining Fabric

When you hear the term, “Interlining Fabric” you might be confused about what exactly it would mean. Let’s understand in simpler terms, Interlinings are the accessories used between two layers of fabric to keep the different components of apparel in the desired shape or to improve the aesthetics and/or performance.

Now let’s understand What is Fusible Interlining Fabric.

The concept of transforming the old cloth into new is something that we all have heard of, similarly, Fusible Interlining is used in a lot of garments and curtains as well.

What is Non-Fusible Interlining 

Non-fusible interlining is an extra layer embedded between the outer fabric and the regular lining of a garment without chemical bonding. 

These followings are the primary target of utilizing interlining in garments –

  • Interlinings are primarily utilized for giving quality, security, and shape maintenance.
  • At the period when melded to the external shell fabric, it goes about as a composite. Thus levels out the outer case against any distortion under load
  • Improves pure and hand feel of fused laminate
  • Contains the state of the united part throughout use and aftercare treatment
  • Improves the life span of the melded part

Different Types of Fusible Interlining.

  •  Woven interlining

 It was mainly 100% cotton fabrics made stiff by starch application and was non-fusible. However, the unpleasant hard touch and irregular points during washing led to the development of woven fusible interlinings. It is most often used by designers to avoid wastage. 

Credit – Woven fusible interlinings | Image source: fusibleinterfacing.com
  • Non-woven Fusible Interlining

As the name suggests it is a non-woven interlining but more like sheets of paper or cardboard. This type of material is used for bags and purses. 

It is made directly from fiber to fabric stage in the process reducing the cost of the base fabric. As there is no yarn used in producing nonwovens, it lacks the strength needed for garment use and there are many methods applied to present required power to non-woven textiles, called Bonding.

  • Waterproof Fusible Interlining

As the name suggests the material used is waterproof and the material made from it can easily be water-resistant. 

  • Decorative Fusible Interlining

This is often used for adding badges, patches, and can also be used to discreetly hide a hole while making your wardrobe more stylish

  • Double-sided Fusible Interlining

Double-sided fusible interlining is used to get rid of holes in clothing, especially jeans.

It’s very easy to use as both sides of the material can be used in this method. 

How Do You Use Fusible Interlining Fabric?

Fusible Interlining is very smooth to use as long as you choose the right type. Now let’s understand how to apply in by the following steps, 

  • The first step is to mark out from the size that you want leaving out some extra space if you are repairing any hole. 
  •  Mark the area that you need and place the fusible interlining wherever you want it. 
  • The fusible interlining would act as a glue right here. Use a heated object or an iron to make the glue melt, so that the interlining sticks to the fabric.
  • Place your iron on each part for 30-40seconds before any movement. 
  • Leave it for sometimes all the fabric has got stuck in the right way. To avoid glue on the iron board make sure you place cotton underneath.

Post Credit –

https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2018/09/different-types-of-interlining-and.html
https://www.superprof.co.in/blog/interfacing-fabric/
Categories
Woven Interlinings

All You Need to Know About Woven Interlinings

All You Need to Know About Woven Interlinings 

 

In textile manufacturing industries, interlining is a very common term. Interlining is nothing but binding two fabrics into a single unit that supports the manufactured piece of clothing. Depending on the outlook and usability of the manufactured item, the various woven interlining fabrics in use are cotton, silk, rayon, viscose, etc.

Know the concept

Fusion interlining has varied types of interlining processes, among which woven interlining is a variant. Here the underlining layer uses the materials made of 100% polyester woven fabric, blended materials or cotton made fabric. The materials in use are soft compared to the non-woven fabrics, and in most cases, they are also better in providing flexibility to the piece of apparel.

Key characteristics

The applications of woven interlining are more than non-woven for the various advantages of the texture of the used fabrics that brings better usability to the manufactured item. Using the woven fabric materials, you can make it malleable yet provide stability to the clothing. Go through the following to understand the properties better.

  1. Softer: The interlinings made of woven fabrics provide a soft feel to the piece of clothing that is not present with the non-woven ones. You will feel the softness, but at the same time, there is a stiffness to it that rightfully serves the purpose of the manufacturer. For this, it is more popular with apparel interlining for the sheer advantage of comfort and softness.
  1. Better stretch: As the fabric in use is a non-rigid one; it gives a better stretching advantage over the non-woven materials. The key feature of woven fabrics is better stretching under demanding conditions that increases comfort. It also helps in increasing the durability of the manufactured product in hindsight.
  1. Eco-friendly: Another reason behind the growing popularity of this type, especially in the fashion industries, is the capability of being environment friendly. Using cotton made fabrics and other naturally degradable materials help in making them nature friendly, unlike the non-woven ones with non-recyclable and artificial components.
  1. Lightweight: Interlinings made of woven fabrics are light in weight. For this, they are very popular in garment manufacturing, where they use this lining in various parts of the clothes without making them heavyweight. It can keep the manufactured item stiff and structured in a seamless way. 
  • Better bonding strength: The woven texture not only provides better flexibility but also generates better bond strength. The property of stretching of it helps in making the fusing bond stronger. It ensures lower risks of tearing and lesser damage as flexibility adds to the strength intake power of the manufactured item.

Using benefits

Interlining is a popular practice with garment manufacturers and those who require fabrics to develop other products like bags and luggage-making industries. In many cases, these work fields use woven fusion interlinings to make their product more durable and stable to damages. Look at the following to get an idea of the benefits of using it.

  1. Prevent creasing: Creases are a primary concern for the garment industries. Creased apparel is not attractive to look at and wear. For this, they use woven interlinings that help in preventing the outer crease of the cloth. Incorporating an extra layer inside helps maintain the rigidity of the outer fabric in the display. Woven materials being soft, also maintains comfort along with serving the purpose.
  1. Adding structure: In embroidery cases on the outer surface of the cloth or any manufactured object, it is better to have a stable structure underneath. Interlining helps in bringing a structure to the texture upon which any design properly fit. Also, in cases of delicate outer layers like organza or silk, it helps in adding a body with a firm layer inside.
  1. Adding density: By combining woven fabrics beneath the outer layer of clothing, it helps in bringing density to the entire apparel. Also, the fitting gets better when the garment has a better density that can sit right on the body. Many manufacturers also add extra layers or paddings that go inside the woven interlinings to hold better.

Summing up

Woven interlinings have distinct uses in the various work fields, and there are many ways to modify the used fabric. For providing better softness and malleability, woven interlinings are the best choice.

Categories
Fusible Interlining

The Different Types of Fusible Interlining

The Different Types Of Fusible Interlining

In garments and apparel manufacturing industries, fusible interlining is a very common technique. It is a type of interlining which attaches the garment components through heat and pressure for a certain amount of time. It is a useful technique for manufacturing curtains, clothes, upholstery, etc.

The technique is essential for binding the textile components and making the material resistant to stretching. By using the method, you can give the cloth more thickness. 

Diverse categories

The basic process of carrying out the fusible interlining process is by the application of thermoplastic adhesive resin. Here, a base fabric is on one side, and the other side has another kind of fabric that gets attached into a single and thick cloth piece. It requires the adhesive that suits the textile’s nature and external heat and pressure to bind into one unit ultimately. However, there are different types of fusion interlining processes available with multiple textile types and kind of projects. It is better to have an idea of the types before getting started with it.

  • Non-woven fusible interlining

Non-woven fusible interlinings are a great option for those in the manufacturing of bags, purses and similar things. Here the interlining is not for any woven fabric; instead, they use a stiff sheet, usually made of paper or cupboards. They help bring rigidity to the base, and thus they are highly suitable for reinforcing at the bottom of the bags. Bags having non-woven fusible interlining are well resistant to rough handling for the stiffness of the materials in use.

  • Woven fusible interlining

As the name suggests, the binding takes place between actual woven fabric materials. Here, a light weighed fabric gets interlined, which presents a finishing touch to clothes and apparels. For being lightweight, it is very easy to get reinforced with other fabrics. It provides a flexible texture to the fused unit and is better with the most demanding conditions. Ideal for waistbands, outerwear jackets and similar items.

  • Water-resistant fusible interlining

Water-resistant or waterproof fusible interlining is a method where the fabric in use is impermeable to incoming water. For making any item or material resistant to water, it is better to apply the fusible interlining technique with the help of waterproof coatings. It brings good rigidity and stiffness to the manufactured products. Ideal for rainwear pieces of clothing like raincoats, rain jackets, etc. In the process, it requires thermal bonding of the non-woven material to get fused, for which they are well resistant to chemical washing, bleaching and other harsh processes. 

  • Knitted fusible interlining

Knitted fusible interlinings are best for efficient production units. For providing stretchability to knotted garments, this method is ideal. They have better recovery properties for the advantage of being stretchable. For that, manufacturers who manufacture jerseys, coats, blazers and other high valued garments use it. The lightweight and soft texture of the laminate are best for the mentioned garments. Knitted types have variations in looping structures that provide flexibility and stables with the material in use. 

Other types

The methods mentioned above are the main variants of the fusible interlining. The following are other types that fall under the subcategories of the formerly mentioned kinds.

  • Quilted Fusible Interlining: You can quilt two pieces of cloth without adding foam or pad in this type. No need to sew it as you only need to fuse the interlining at the end. It helps when you do not have a warm material like fleece or flannel, you can serve the purpose by interlining to quilt the clothing.
  • Decorative Fusible Interlining: Mainly for adding the patchy look on the clothes for designing purpose. You can also use it to cover holes of a clothing piece, giving a stylish outlook.
  • Double-Sided Fusible Interlining: Ideal for repairing holes in clothes, especially in jeans. Bonds both the sides like double-sided tape, making it easy to use.

Do it right

To carry out the fusing process perfectly, you need a well-working fusing press and the correct fabric to use. Identify the right process as per your manufacturing requirements.

 

Check factors like dwelling time, temperature conditions, adhesive quality, bond strength and other relevant conditions that play a part in the interlining process. Reading the above will surely help you gain an overall knowledge of the types of fusible interlinings.

Categories
Cotton Fabrics Polyester Fabrics

Cotton VS Polyester: Benefits of Using Cotton and Polyester Fabrics

Benefits of Using Cotton and Polyester Fabrics

Cotton and blended poly-cotton fabrics are a very popular choice among garment makers for their versatility. The most basic and regular fabric, cotton, helps provide comfort to the manufactured items and has other benefits. With the addition of polyesters, the advantages have only increased. Go through the following to know of the many benefits of cotton and polyester fabrics.

Cotton fabrics

Garments and products made of 100% cotton are always high in demand. Cotton has always been a good choice among the makers for the simple properties of the texture. Comfort is almost synonymous with cotton. Have a glance at the given aspects to understand better.

Benefits at a glance

The primary benefit of cotton is the comfort and eco-friendliness for which it is extensively in use. Other than this, the other factors worth considering are:

  • Breathable: Cotton-made clothes and apparels are highly breathable. The way the cotton fabric gets made from the multiple threads and strands makes the texture light weighing and breathable. It helps in maintaining airflow throughout the fabric and garment. It does not sit too tight on the body even if the design is body-hugging. Unlike the non-cotton ones, the air can still pass through the small pockets of threads giving a softer feel to the attached body part.
  • For any style: Many have the misconception that cotton fabrics are only suitable for casual clothes. In contrast to it, kinds of cotton are well functioning in making regular garments and professional apparel like suits, formal shirts, and even jackets. The new in fashion cotton trousers are the brightest examples of cotton-made professional garments. The fabric’s properties make it compatible with any styling and design.
  • Better to design: The rising popularity of cotton fabric among fashion designers and garment industries is because of the better scope to design it. It is much easier to make a print on cotton than any other fabric. The texture is highly prone to stick with the printed designs, making it convenient for the designers. Also, cotton clothes go well with embroidery due to the tiny thread pockets all over the fabric. The texture helps in the sewing process a lot that produces efficient design opportunities on it. With cotton, you have ample room to experiment with the designs.

Polyester fabrics

Blended poly cotton or polyester fabrics are highly popular these days. The reason for that is the versatility of the fabric that it serves multiple purposes in a package. In fashion, designing, interior arts, everywhere, polyesters are extensively in use. It is not a natural product but a blended version that contains elements of plastic. Have a glance at the following to understand the uses better.

Advantages worth knowing

The many advantages of polyesters have made them an essential manufacturing product that you may use regularly. Nylon is a great example of useful polyester, and the multiple benefits have made it an inseparable component of the textile industry. The following are the varied advantages, to mention a few.

  • Highly durable: For the addition of plastic elements in the fabric, the products manufactured from polyesters are highly durable than others. With the perfect blend of natural components and poly ingredients, the material is also good at stretching. Wearing polyester-made clothes provides comfort as well.
  • Less wrinkling: Wrinkles on clothes are a thing to worry about for both user and the makers. It reduces the attractiveness of it. There is very little chance of wrinkles with polyesters as they have a stiff texture that helps maintain the apparel structure. People are largely adapting to polyester for the low maintenance aspects of the fabric.
  • Rough-use friendly: Manufacturers who make clothes for regular usage and other textile items that do not require delicate handling vehemently use polyester for their ability to resist damages. The fabric’s highly durable and flexible texture allows the user to use the apparel roughly. For this, garment makers and other industries involving textiles like bags, luggage, etc., are adapting to polyester to improve users’ usability. 

Rounding up

Reading the above will help you understand the cause behind the ever-increasing demand for cotton and polyester fabrics. Using them in daily wearables and textile products has eased the using factor for the users and the makers.

Categories
Interlining

Different Types of Interlining and Interlining Selection Procedure

What is interlining?

Interlining is a layer of textile used between two outer layers of shell fabric to impart strength, support, stability and shape retention to the outer shell fabric against any distortion due to stress exerted at various stages of production, during wearing/use or aftercare treatments. The interlining is also called as interfacing.

Difference between interlining and lining

The lining is a layer of textile used under the garment as cover to the raw edges and smooth surface to support outer shell for good drape. It can be woven or knits as needed for a particular application/use. For an example, in the girl’s frock, you will find white lining fabrics under the shell fabric.

As said above interlining is used between two outer fabric layers. For an example, fusible interlining used in collar and cuff in men’s formal shirts for stiffening the said components.

Why use interlining?

Followings are the primary objective of using interlining in garments.

  • Interlinings are primarily used for imparting strength/support, stability and shape retention.
  • When fused to the outer shell fabric it acts as a composite and stabilizes the outer shell against any distortion under stress
  • Helps improve aesthetic and hand feel of fused laminate
  • Helps retain the shape of the fused part during use and after care treatment
  • Improves longevity of fused part
Different types of interlining available/in use

Interlining can be classified into different types based on:

a) Based on the base fabric structure interlinings are categorized into 3 types

  • woven interlining, 
  • knits interlining and
  • nonwoven interlining

b) Based on its application point, interlinings are categorized as

  • non-fusible or
  • fusible

#1. Woven interlining
Primarily woven interlinings were first used 100 years ago to strengthen/support coats, cloaks and gowns or hat. It was mainly 100% cotton fabrics made stiff by starch application and was non-fusible. However, the unpleasant hard touch and irregular characteristics during washing led to the development of fusible interlinings.

Normal cotton sheeting fabrics were applied with a layer of adhesive that can be fixed to the shell fabric by application of heat or pressure. This formed a composite part of the fused shell part and supported the outer shell for better drape and look.

Woven interlinings are majorly 100% cotton based with a thread density of variable count as required for the weight or stiffness needed for a particular use. Now poly-cotton blends are also available to overcome the problems of shrinkage faced in cotton fabrics together with a variety of warp and weft combination like rayon, texturized poly and wool etc.

Advantages of woven interlining
The main advantage of woven fabrics is its strength and stability, hence used for all such applications where strength and stability are needed like the waistband.

However, this could be a disadvantage at times where flexibility and soft hand feel is required.

Woven is majorly plain weaves, sometimes crepe, herringbone or twill weaves are also offered according to the application need.

In such cases, texturized poly yarns are used for voluminous body, soft and natural hand feel or drape of the fused composite at the same time strength, flexibility and lightweight of the fused laminate is achieved without much altering the natural drape or texture of shell fabric.

However, woven is expensive and not suitable for less expensive casual garments hence, it was replaced by knitted fabrics that used a combination of synthetic yarns with rayon and wool for body and volume according to different application intended for.

#2. Knitted interlinings

The major disadvantage of woven in its flexibility, lightweight and soft handle was duly addressed by knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics have a large number of variation in terms of loop structures to impart flexibility/stretch together with the body (volume) and strength/stability.

They are kept lightweight and soft hand feel of the laminate by using fine bulked (texturized) filaments. It is expensive and hence used in high value garments like blazers and high fashion blouses.

#3. Non-woven interlinings

As the name implies there is no involvement of any yarn for interlacement to make the fabric.

It is made directly from fiber to fabric stage in the process reducing the cost of base fabric. As there is no yarn used in making nonwovens, it lacks in strength needed for apparel use and there are many techniques applied to impart required strength to nonwoven textiles, called Bonding. They are the most versatile product available from 10gsm to 200gsm and above, offering light, soft, flexible or strong for any application one can think of. The basic manufacturing technique is using mostly synthetic fibers to form a layer, which are imparted strength by bonding.

Let us understand the different layering and bonding methods, their use and their advantages and disadvantages.

Layering Method:
Different types of layering methods (spun laid, wet laid, dry/random laid, cross laid, and linear laying) are showing in the following images.


Bonding Method


Advantages and Disadvantages

HD-PE-ADHESIVE 

AdvantagesDisadvantages
Good bond-strength on a wide range of fabicsNo steam fusing capability
No reaction to steam no steam included strike-backNo high-frequency fusing capability
Good dry cleanability (A)* Requires high fusing conditions 
Excellent washability (950C), suitable for garment dyeing, etc.  Heavy contamination of taflon belts


HD-PE-ADHESIVE 

Advantages Disadvantages 
Adequate bond-strength for small-area fusing Hardening of the handle due to surface scatter coating
Low reaction to steam, low level of steam-included strike-backNo high-frequency fusing capability
Easy to fuse with hard-iresAdhesive strike-through passible as this, lightweight outer fabrics
Adhesive weakened during dry cleaning can be reactivated by re-pressing No dirt on roller/thread
Very good washabilityHeavy contamination of taflon belts.



PA-ADHESIVE

AdvantagesDisadvantages
Good bond-strength on a wide range of outer
fabrics
Bond-strength sometimes inferior on sythetic outer fabrics and fabrics with special finishes
Melting point lowered by steamStrong reaction to steam, possibly disadvantageous with low melt adhesives
Good dry cleanability to all solvents Fendency to steam-included strike-back
Good washability (30-60 Degree C)Washable only to 40C with MV adhesives
No contamination of teflon belts on continuous presses 

 

How to select the right interlining for my use?

To help decide on the type of interlining suitable for an application, one has to evaluate exact need, purpose, the material area of application, the care instruction and processing details of the garment.

The following FORMAT is suggested to be filled in and one may consult an interlining supplier to conduct a fusing test on the material, preferably on self-owned equipment in the factory and submit a test report for 5, 10 or 20 washes depending upon the brand value and price point of the garment.

Fusing Test Request

Factory 
Address 
Production Head 
Quality Head 
Buyer/Country 
Style/Art 
MaterialContent (100% polyester, georgette 50gsm, provide 1-2mtr original finished fabric)
ItemLadies Blouse
Care Instruction 
Application areaCollar, neckband, placket, cuff
FusingPress model
Test MethodIS-1259



Fabric Sample

Based on the above information, the interlining manufacturer will submit the test results showing:

  • Samples after fusing and after 5, 10 or 20 washes for appearance, hand feel reference
  • Bond strength values after fusing and after washes. The buyer can decide if the results and looks are acceptable or not.

If left to choose, then one can decide based on:

  • Appearance: no bubble or any surface unevenness after wash.
  • No change in hand feel making it too hard.
  • No change in visual looks: wavy moiré effect or colour change (please refer to picture NW 10). This is due to woven interlining or linear dot print pattern used in light open texture fabrics (see picture NW).
  • No shiny dots of glue visible on another side.
  • Normally for very light, transparent and flimsy fabric like georgette/chiffon colour of interlining must match the base colour and not use white/black/charcoal in general.
  • For small area usage as mentioned which are close stitched from all sides the bond value of 5-7 N per 5cm strip is enough and safe.
Do’sDon’ts
Cut interlining in the same direction as shellDon’t cut beyond pattern-5mm lesser
Put fusing on top of the shell facing downNever shell on top of the shell
Ensure no folds in shell/fusingNo folds at output end in hot state
Check glue line temp by temp. StripNever lower /higher than given temperature.
Check the speed of machine before useNever faster than the set speed-poor fuse
Check roller impression by carbon paperNo dirt on roller/thread
Check bonding before startDon’t start feed w/o temp check


About the Author: Rajkumar Rai is a Textile Graduate from Calcutta University and alumni of Indian Institute of Foreign Trade. He has over 36 years of work experience spanning in textile processing, apparel buying house, and other areas. He was India head of Freudenberg. He was heading a buying house over 25 years and worked with German buyers.

Image source: fusibleinterfacing.com